Rhythmic patterns of the sandy coast and self-organization of the relief
- 作者: Leont’yev I.O.1
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隶属关系:
- Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences
- 期: 卷 64, 编号 4 (2024)
- 页面: 678-689
- 栏目: Морская геология
- URL: https://journal-vniispk.ru/0030-1574/article/view/280473
- DOI: https://doi.org/10.31857/S0030157424040113
- EDN: https://elibrary.ru/PRCRZD
- ID: 280473
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详细
The phenomenon of rhythmic patterns of the coastal-zone morphology (beach cusps, alongshore sand waves, spits and nearshore bars) is considered as the result of self-organization of the relief when establishing a positive feedback between sediment transport and morphology. It is shown that the dynamics of the contour and profile of the coast can be described in terms of the diffusion equation, which allows for both attenuation and growth of relief disturbances. The conditions under which the self-organization mechanism is activated and the resulting disturbances grow over time are determined. Rhythmic structures of the coastal contour are traditionally associated with waves propagating at a large angle relative to the coastal normal. However, it has been shown that the self-organization of beach cusps and megacusps is also realized in normal shore waves due to the development of circulation cells in the surf zone. The conclusion is substantiated that the formation of nearshore bars under certain conditions is also determined by the self-organization mechanism. The results obtained help to interpret the available observational data regarding the evolution of multiple bar systems.
作者简介
I. Leont’yev
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences
编辑信件的主要联系方式.
Email: igor.leontiev@gmail.com
俄罗斯联邦, Moscow
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