Experimental study of the relationship between the wave groupiness and wave height

Abstract

It is demonstrated that the greatest influence of the variations in the groupiness of storm waves in the Baltic Sea concerns the highest waves. The variations in the height of less high waves are defined by wind speed. It is revealed that the height of 3% of the highest waves depends on their bandwidth: higher and lower waves are characterized by the larger and smaller set of frequencies, respectively. The significant wave height does not almost depend on the bandwidth. It is found that the spectrum of storm waves in the southwestern part of the Baltic Sea has a multi-peak structure which reflects the complex structure of waves consisting of several wave systems. Envelopes and individual waves of different frequency ranges superimpose, and extreme waves are generated. The probability of occurrence of extreme waves is maximum at the moments of the maximum development of wave groupiness.